Sounds like one of those cheesy infomercials but all of the above is true.
The benefits of a calorie restricted diet aren’t new. Rats being fed a calorie restricted diet lived twice as long, were more active and overall healthier.
The recent findings published about studies done in monkeys may be even more relevant. Long story short a 30% reduction in calories while maintaining good nutrition roughly extends your life by 20%, reduces the rate by which you age and allows you to live much healthier while alive.
Here’s the link to the report, pretty interesting stuff:
This is all of course strongly linked to survival and preparedness for obvious reasons. Living 1% longer sounds pretty good, but if we’re capable of stretching it to 10% or 20% and not only that but also be healthier while doing so then the benefits start piling up. Eating less also means spending less money on food, which directly puts money in our wallet for supplies, gear and of course savings.
It’s not hard to combine the different benefits with our modern survival plans: We want to live longer, be fit and healthy, save money and stockpile the necessary supplies. Bulking up our supply of wholegrain rice, lentils and canned vegetables means we are buying some of the most affordable food in stores, food that also happens to be high on nutrition but low on calories AND happens to store well, ideal for long term food supply for emergencies.
Eating little of it at a time means we’re abiding by another important survival rule: Store what you eat, eat what you store.
So by now you’re probably thinking: “This all sounds great and I’m on board but I have two important questions, how much calories do I need so as to deduct 30% from that and how do I know how much calories I’m eating?”
Regarding the first question there are several ways of estimating your caloric need but this link would be a good way to start.
Regarding how many calories you’re eating I suggest downloading a calorie counter app for your phone. They are simple enough to use. After some time you get the hang of it and have a pretty good idea of what you are eating. Having a mostly plant based diet will make things easier since they have good nutrition value but are usually low on calories. I would suggest minimizing the amount of meat consumed as well and sticking to lean meat such as chicken or turkey breast or meat with good fat like salmon and tuna.
If you want to give it a try using some of that rice and lentils you should have stocked up by now, check some out one of my favorite recipes, lentil stew.
Extract: Smoke from a fire is seen near Moccasin Hill, Ore. Officials say a fast-growing wildfire in southern Oregon has destroyed homes and forced dozens of evacuations.
Fernando, an interesting thing happened recently in south Oregon, a conservative area with lots of “preppers”. Basically, a big wildfire hit a rural neighborhood well known in Klamath County for having lots of preppers and off-the-grid types. According to local media, people were forced to flee IMMEDIATELY ahead of flames twice as high as the
pine trees. Many lost everything, including preps. Miraculously, nobody died, but half of an area known variously as “Moccasin Hill” or “Klamath Falls Forest Estates #1″ was reduced to ash. Google “Moccasin Hill wildfire Klamath County Oregon” for more info, and be aware that local media often has limits on how many free articles you can read. Thought you’d like to know about it, especially considering the new release of your book about bugging out.
(also in Canada)
extract:Homes in West Kelowna are threatening by a wildfire that has grown to 400 hectares in size. (CBc)
Here is an example of a bug out for some, and certainly a readiness
test for 60,000 if the wildfires damage the electrical-transmission
Thanks for your email.
Here’s a link to the fires in Oregon
Indeed, that’s one of the points I try to explain in “Bugging Out and Relocating”: Sometimes you simply don’t get to choose. Sure, in my case it was a country falling apart after a large scale economic disaster, resulting in poverty and crime that changed the landscape of the country, bringing the standards of living below levels I considered acceptable. You could say that’s not the kind of thing that happens every day. But in the case of Oregon and Canada, wild fires do happen with certain frequency and common house fires even more so. What about foreclosures? What about not being able to pay rent? The simple truth is, no preparedness plan is complete without a strategy for when bugging in isn’t an option.
In the case of survivalists, preppers and their homes, just like anyone else, losing all your material belongings can be devastating. Bugging out of Argentina and having to leave most of our belongings behind forced us to reevaluate how much sentimental value we had placed on inanimate objects. I’ve reached the point where I can honestly leave everything behind, I don’t value “stuff” nearly as much as I used to. Sure, I have a few belongings that I like and wouldn’t want to part with, but I’ve learned to understand what’s really important. When it comes to preparedness it is true that certain supplies and gear are important assets. You can’t live without food, water and shelter. Then again, with the right skills (and I’m not talking about starting a fire with a bow drill here folks) supplies and gear can be replaced and bought again. Here’s where we revisit how important skills and mindset are compared to “stuff”. Also to be addressed, the importance of not putting all your eggs in one basket.
Even if you have a well set homestead, and as uncomfortable as it may be to even think about it, you must force yourself to do the mental exercise of going through what you would do it you lost it all, if it all went up in flames or you had to evacuate all of a sudden. If you think this way you soon start thinking about reallocating at least some of your supplies and assets, organizing in a different way, leaving a bag or a couple boxes with some family or friends somewhere else. This uncomfortable exercise is good, because it takes you out of your comfort zone, your idealized scenario where everything goes along as you desire, which is the opposite of what happens during real disasters.
Another point I try to focus on: You just can’t live in your Bug Out Location. If you think you do, then you don’t understand what bug out location means. By definition a BOL is a place other than where you currently reside, because its where you go when your current place of residence is no longer viable. Once you live there, as great and as wonderful as it may be, its no longer a BOL.
There are numerous possible situations that may force you out of your home. As discussed in previous posts, a fire can spread through an entire house in less than 60 seconds. With disasters such as those or earthquakes, mudslides or floods it may happen even faster. Because of this, you need to know exactly what you are doing depending on the time you have. What would you do if you leave with nothing but the clothes on your back and the loved ones you managed to pull out? what do you remove if you have just a couple minutes and what you take if you have an hour or more to load up a car before making a quick exit?
The following is a short extract from my book “Bugging Out and Relocating”, page 24
Bug Out Timing
It is important to plan ahead of time what to do when disaster strikes. Family members should know how to evacuate the house during an emergency, what to do if the main door cannot be opened or accessed and in what specific exterior location the family will be meeting once they make it outside. Clearly identify two emergency exits in each floor and make sure everyone in the house knows about them and how to access them. For such a purpose, you may need an Escape Ladder. Everyone should know exactly what to do when a family member raises the alarm and tells everyone to get out. This should be practiced at least once a year so that all family members know how to react during an evacuation. Depending on the nature of the disaster that is forcing you to bug out, you will have more or less time to gather emergency supplies.
The guideline below is an attempt to organize that which by its very own nature is chaotic and unpredictable. Still, it will give you a better idea of what your priorities are depending on how much time you believe you have. Never overestimate how much time you have. Material goods can be replaced and the difference between leaving one minute too early and one minute too late may be the difference between life and death. Keeping gear and kits well organized will help you get more of them out when every second counts. Remember to also consider how much time you may need to evacuate the disaster are if the event is not limited to your home and immediate surroundings. You may need to cover several miles before reaching safety and you don’t know what kind of delays you may encounter.
Gather all family members and exit the building as fast as possible. You leave with your lives and the clothes on your back. House fires and fast raising flood waters are good examples of such a case.
Once all family members have been accounted for and they have safely evacuated the building, grab the Bug Out Bag and Documents Bag. Grab the contents of your safe such as emergency cash, precious metals, jewelry and other family heirlooms. Most of the items kept in the safe should already be in the Documents Bag (see page 37) for quick removal. Examples of such a case are house fires, approaching wild fires, floods, terrorist attacks and nearby industrial accidents.
In this case there is enough time to grab your BOB and Documents Bag. You can also gather more gear and supplies such as food, firearms, water, camping gear and extra clothes. If prepared ahead of time and ready to roll, it is also possible to take your trailer or caravan and have a quick word or leave a note with a trusted neighbor. Time flies when dealing with an emergency and the hour will go by sooner than expected. How well you equipment has been stored and organized will determine how much of it you will be able to gather given the time that you have. Possible examples of such a situation are mandatory evacuation ahead of a storm, foreign invasion, violent uprising.
Congratulations on completing your new book – I just received my copy from Amazon.
I was wondering if you have any recommendations on home alarms – what should one look for in a good alarm system?
Hope you enjoy my new book, “Bugging Out and Relocating”.
An alarm system is the most important step you can take towards improving your home security. Sometimes people focus too much on guns. Guns are great, but its what you end up using when everything else fails in a worst case scenario. For passive defense nothing beats a good alarm. It’s the first thing burglars look for when selecting a potential target. 1) Alarm
2) type of doors and lock
3) if there’s a dog
Generally in that order. Before anything else, an alarm is a deterrent on its own. If your house is one of the few in the neighborhood with an alarm, guess which house criminals will skip? And if your house is the only one without an alarm, guess which one criminals will go for? Bottom line, you just need one.
What to get
Security systems such as ADT that require a monthly payment can be very expensive and are generally not recommended. A security system such as Simplisafe2 Home Secuirty System is also monitored and much cheaper than ADT, and they end up outsourcing to the same call centers when the alarm goes off. In general, a monitored alarm is the best way to go but even a small monthly payment does add up as times goes by. Having said that, if you can afford it, it’s worth it. This is particularly true for properties that are left unoccupied most of the time and are likely to be targeted by more dedicated criminals.
The second best option is installing a security system that while not monitored by a company, has an alarm that will call you to your cell phone. You can even install surveillance cameras so as to check your property through your cell phone. Wireless security systems are easy to install and if done so properly provide a good level of security. The disadvantage is that you will need to replace batteries on sensors, alarm and panel about once a year for most models.
When installing the system keep the following in mind:
1)Cover the main corridors and stairways with motion sensors. Sensors should be placed facing the main entry points, sweeping as much of the room as possible and minding blind spots.
2)All exterior doors on the floor level should have contact sensors installed.
3)The main panel should be close to the main entrance and fairly accessible, but placed in a location that isn’t too obvious whenever possible.
4)Burglars can get inside through windows as well, so buy additional motion sensors for rooms where valuables are kept if necessary.
5)Be very careful who you tell your alarm code to and remember that the alarm only works when you actually turn it on. Alarms with Key Fobs are more suited for people that don’t want to be bothered punching in codes every time they leave or enter the house.
This would be a good basic system for the price. It includes the main console, 5 door contacts, 2 motion detectors, 2 key fobs, panic button and one interior siren. You can program it to call you to your cell phone. You can even listen to what’s going on inside the house and play a pre-recorded message (something like, you are being filmed, the police has been notified)
This one includes main console, 10 door contacts, 3 motion detectors, 3 key fobs, interior siren, exterior siren, one panic button and uses both land line and GSM dialer and will call you if the land line is forcibly cut. You can call and talk to anyone close to the main console.
Don’t panic, this is just Mr. Bill testing a feature that automatically creates a forum topic from each blog post.